Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera, Polonnaruwa
Two stupas in the northern half of the old city: Rankoth Vehera, the largest in Polonnaruwa, and Kiri Vehera, whose original white plaster survived the jungle.
Sources
What the two stupas actually are
Rankoth Vehera was built by King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196) and is the largest stupa in Polonnaruwa. Wikipedia gives its height as about 33 metres today, possibly nearly 61 metres originally, with a circumference of roughly 170 metres, and describes it as the fourth largest in Sri Lanka. The brick is bare and the upper part was altered in later renovations, so the shape is slightly lumpy rather than clean. An inscription near it calls it Ruwanweli, a name it shares with the great Anuradhapura stupa. “Ran” means gold.
Kiri Vehera, “the milk stupa”, is smaller and prettier. The Mahavamsa credits Queen Subhadra, a consort of Parakramabahu I (reigned 1153–1186), and it was originally called Rupavati. When the jungle was cleared in the 19th century its lime plaster was reported largely intact, and a good deal of the original surface survives. Wikipedia says the plaster is “largely intact after more than 800 years”.
Both are brick stupas. The contrast is the point of seeing them together: Rankoth for scale, Kiri for how a stupa originally looked.
Worth your attention
The surviving plaster
Look closely at Kiri Vehera’s dome for the smooth white lime coat, patchy but original. This is what the bare-brick stupas looked like when new.
The bulk of Rankoth
Wikipedia’s circumference figure is about 170 metres. It is better judged by walking round it than by photographs.
The altered top
Rankoth’s upper part was reshaped in later renovations, which is why it looks less crisp than a classic dome.
The name Ruwanweli
An inscription near Rankoth uses the name Ruwanweli, which you will otherwise only hear in Anuradhapura.
Before you go
Do this
- Visit Kiri Vehera in late afternoon, when the plaster picks up the sun.
- Take a bicycle between the two; they are close but the road is exposed.
- Pair them with Lankatilaka and Gal Vihara, which are in the same part of the site.
- Walk the full circuit of Rankoth to take in its bulk.
- Keep your shoes with your bag so you can carry them between stupas.
Know this first
- Sources differ on dates for Kiri Vehera (11th vs 12th century); the 12th-century attribution under Parakramabahu I is the better supported.
- Heights vary between sources; the figures here are Wikipedia’s.
- Rankoth is not as photogenic as Kiri; the pleasure is scale, not surface.
- Both are active places of worship, so keep voices low and do not climb on the platform.
Getting to Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera, Polonnaruwa
Most people see Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera, Polonnaruwa as part of a stay around Polonnaruwa. Our Polonnaruwa guide covers where to stay, how long to give it and what else is nearby.
Coming straight from the airport, the relevant run is Colombo Airport to Polonnaruwa — fixed price per vehicle, driver waiting inside arrivals with a name board.
Read the full Polonnaruwa guideFrom Colombo Airport
Car up to 3 passengers; vans quoted on the route page. No night surcharge.
Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera, Polonnaruwa — frequently asked
What are Rankoth Vehera and Kiri Vehera?
Two large brick stupas at Polonnaruwa. Rankoth Vehera is the largest in the old city, built by Nissanka Malla; Kiri Vehera is a smaller stupa attributed to Queen Subhadra.
Why is Kiri Vehera called the milk stupa?
The name refers to its white lime plaster. The coat is largely original, which is unusual for a 12th-century monument.
How big is Rankoth Vehera?
About 33 metres high today according to Wikipedia, with a circumference of roughly 170 metres. It may once have been taller.
Do I need a separate ticket?
No. The Polonnaruwa ticket covers both. Around US$ 30 for foreign adults was the 2026 listing price.
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